When we got into the inner courtyard I know it’s gonna take us a while longer before we are ready to leave
We ended up staying in Batopilas for way longer than I thought.
First reason was that we both liked it, it was not hard to decide to stay another day.
Second reason, was that I really wanted to ride more of that road, which revealed to be a real gem, so we stayed the second day.
Then Dane got sick, food poisoning or something, so we stayed longer, till it started to rain and snow on the top of the canyon, rivers raising and Dane got hospital sick.
Let me start with the village. Batopilas, an old silver miners town, is a very quaint place. A place knows everyone’s business and everyone gets along pretty well with each other. In the morning they work, then they hang out on the streets, they take their sweet time to do just about anything. And I learned that in a couple of days. You can’t just walk from Carolinas and go to the square, which is 200 meters away, in less than 5 minutes. You can’t. There is the little chiuaua Chispa that demands absolute attention, then you meet Martin, the don of our hotel, who laughs all day and is the general intel for the town, then you meet his brother Rafael, the local tour guide and so on… There, 30 minutes gone. Every day was absolutely the same, yet very unique. We ate almost all of our meals at Carolinas and got pretty friendly with the staff. Beer always happened at about 19h at the local bar, one of the most ancient buildings in town. Get a dring with the other Martin, chat with Lupe about the weather, every now and then meet with the younger people and “dar un roll”, which stands for driving up and down town, blasting music, waving at people.
The town is perfectly autonomous. Local police/army, local narcos, a school, a very nice hospital with A doctor. Cyber caffe, a couple of restaurants and so on.
The Ride. We took a ride out of the canyon on the road that was just finished. In October exactly. It seems like they expect a lot of traffic as the road is HUGE. I’ve heard some tourists complaining about it, because the dirt road was feeling more like “adventure”. But I think it’s great for the locals. Bring in some tourism to the town, which after the 2009 cartel wars is virtually none.
The ride is outstanding my opinion, this is one of the most spectacular roads I’ve ever ridden. The quality of the pavement is pretty good, they could improve it by removing the boulders that fell from the cliffs, but I guess it’s still a work in progress, Rome wasn’t built in a day…
The scenery is splendid and there is virtually no traffic. It’s about 35 kilometers one way, I did it twice and met 3 or 4 cars. I’d go there with a GS, stay for a week and do it a couple of times a day.
I would definitely recommend to put this road on your bucket list.
After all that, people were seriously trying to hook us up with some single locals and make us stay. Unfortunately, after his last feat of motorcycle maintenance, Dane fell very sick and eventually discovered he’s also broke. Got a free ticket back home and we left the same day. Dane to Chiuaua airport, BC1 (almost with Chispa in the tank bag) and myself towards El Fuerte.
It was time to write another chapter in the Kantina chronicles. Bye Dane, you will be missed…